Showing posts with label Athens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Athens. Show all posts

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Report from ground zero: Athens

Our second to the last destination on our jaunt through the motherland* is Athens. For centuries, this city was the center of the universe and if you have been following the crisis, it is again!  At least it has been to the press.

As you may recall from previous posts, we did not really notice the impacts of the crisis in Thessaloniki, Crete, Messinia or Nafplion.  I assumed we would in Athens, Greece's largest city full of pensioners and protesters.

Only we haven't.

Even in Athens the tourist bubble is still intact: cash comes out of the ATMs; most places take credit cards; the streets are filled with tourists; the beautiful (that's the word for it) Athens Metro is clean and orderly and normal. Additionally, during a walking trip into a residential neighborhood near our hotel I found the mini mart full of food, a larger market also fully stocked, and a vegetable stand bursting with produce.  Even the graffiti, which mars large parts of Thessaloniki, is relatively mild here.

Granted, neighborhoods outside of downtown probably aren't in as good a shape, and there are many store fronts whose only sign is 'ενοικίαση' - for rent - but in general Athens seems to be in decent to good shape.

There definitely seems to be a disconnect between the press and the facts on the ground.  For instance, the day after we saw a report on the BBC on the dire shape of the Monastiraki flea market we went there, and found it full of opens stores, merchandise, and tourists. Later that night we saw the BBC reporter on the square behind the Acropolis Museum but resisted the urge to ask about his coverage.

Or maybe I am simply too ensconced in my tourist bubble but the Athens and Athenians we have interacted with has ranged from awesome to normal.  I hope that our experience here is less me being insensitive to folks who are suffering and more that H Ελλάδα ποτέ δεν πεθαίνει! Greece will never die!

I'll wrap up this post with a quote from Chuck D: don't believe the hype, and come to Greece if you can!**  Τα λεμε! - Αthan

* Of course, we wrap up our trip outside of the motherland courtesy of a 20-hour layover in Constantinople. But since my dad's family is from Anatolia it counts.
** The second part of that quote was NOT from Chuck D.  I believe that was Flava Flave.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Trip to Ellas

I'm glad to be home after 10 days of vacation, but I still wish I was in Greece. We had a good to great vacation in the motherland, visiting Athens, Chania in Crete, Nafplio for a day, spending 3 days and 2 nights in my mom's home village of Spilia in Messinia before wrapping up our stay with a trip to the Temple of Poseidon on Cape Sounion south of Athens.

Greeks are famous for living in the moment, and I think part of that may be due to Greece being such a tantalizing place. For a small country there is a lot to see and do, 3,000 years of unmatched history to soak up. If you didn't live in the moment you would go crazy in Greece contemplating which site to visit, taverna to eat in, fish to pick out the back of the kitchen to eat, even which relative to visit. So instead of lamenting a wrong choice or bad relative Greeks just live in the moment, reveling in what they have or where they are right now.

Democracy, reason, Kalamata olives, the Olympics, and living in the moment. A great legacy for a great place.

For me, the highlights of the trip were: the new Acropolis museum, visiting my family in Spilia, and Sounion, though it's hard to leave out Greece's two loveliest towns - Chania and Nafplio.

The new museum is excellent. It's a cool modern building just south of the Acropolis and on the edge of the Plaka (our hotel, the Philippos, was a block away). And the inside is elegant which beautiful and dignified displays of the artifacts from classical Greece, topped off by the third floor display of the Parthenon friezes and metopes (the ones not looted by "Lord" Elgin). A wonderful, beautiful space filled with the building blocks of western civilization.

Spilia, for a small village, is a charming place.  All four of us had a good time there but the kids especially enjoyed that part of our vacation. The good karma and affection from our many relatives - 4 surviving aunts and uncles plus countless cousins, second cousins, and I think some third cousins - is beautiful and palpable. And since no one there speaks English it's a great place for me to practice my Greek. Both Ariadne and Evan understand a little Greek, but despite a real language barrier our kids got along great with their Greek relatives.

They also enjoyed visiting the family farm, checking out my mom's portion of the family olive grove, and picking fresh fruits and vegetables from my uncle’s garden. Our first day in Spilia we ate at my uncle's house, and except for the spaghetti they offered as part of the kids' meal everything they served - the roasted chicken, the Greek fried potatoes cooked in olive oil, the Greek salad, feta cheese, olives, greens, bread, wine, watermelon, and cantaloupe were all home made/home grown/home cooked. To call my uncle’s family locovores would be an understatement.

Finally, wrapping up our trip with a visit to Cape Sounion was both magical and fitting. Though it’s on the water, the cape surrounded by mountains AND oceans, and is topped with the Parthenon-like Temple of Poseidon. We were there at sunset, and it's a stunning site at that time of day. For me, Sounion IS Greece: mountains, ocean, temples, and stunning. I’m ready to go back right now – pame!

I'll share some more random Greek observations soon.